New York Fashion Week has once again proven why the Empire City is the fashion capital of the world. Seven days of events, all over NYC, where New Yorkers and visitors adorned with the most luxurious and striking pieces in their wardrobes for attendance at the highly anticipated runway shows.
On top of all this a number of designers presented their new Spring/Summer 2023 collections, in locations from Spring Studios to Times Square. Although Fashion reflects the undercurrents of the zeitgeist and mirrors the spirit of the age, all are eager to find trends that can be incorporated into their wardrobe for the following seasons.
With the growth of streetwear recognition among mainstream labels and its increasing aggregation to Haute couture houses, the use of oversized pieces has become prevalent. Longer and wider lengths and cuts projected bigger proportions, appearing in both womenswear and menswear at the shows and derived from the influence of icons such as Virgil Abloh.
These are the pieces inspired by designs dating back to over 70 years ago. The new “old money” aesthetic may be one of the reasons behind this comeback, as the style’s popularity increased after the term became widely known with the release of the “Inventing Anna” Netflix series. Blazers, suits, and tailored military designs are amongst some of the items returning, as well as midi skirts in neat and compact outfits. Choosing good quality pieces is especially important in this case, as they can last a long time in your wardrobe and look just as good ten years from now.
Photo: Michael Kors
Sheer textiles began returning during the last Fall/Winter 2022 season, with brands such as Custo Barcelona starring it on their runways. After Spring/Summer 2023 there is no doubt that this tendency is here to stay. Labels such as Tom Ford and Deviate included see-through items in their collections, and while some are more modern and up-to-the-minute, many designs are more classic, making the thin fabric a diaphanous detail.
Photo: Tom Ford
The work-from-home lifestyle that peaked during the pandemic in 2020, along with the rising popularity of vintage resale apps like Depop, are a couple of the responsible factors behind the knitwear trend. As a result, cardigans, tops, dresses, skirts, bags, and even bikinis made via knitting techniques became very popular and were all over New York Fashion Week runways. Although the designers bringing this back the most are the up-and-coming ones, well established brands like Ulla Johnson have also recently released knitwear pieces.
Photo: Ulla Johnson
Layering technique promotes an effortlessly chic look, and although not easy to master, it has been getting more popular than ever. Many designers such as Brandon Maxwell (see image above) presented layered outfits in their collections. When preparing an outfit like this the key is to choose harmonizing clothes, materials, colors, and accessories.
Photo: Brandon Maxwell
The festive fringe that composed so many looks in the ’20s and ’60s is one of the year’s most prominent trends and comes with constant variations in its shape, but always with dangly pieces hanging from the fabric. There can be knots, faux waterfalls, fringed hemlines, and endless other possibilities. Proenza Schouler stands out as one of the labels that most flawlessly reproduced this trend in 2022.
Photo: Proenza Schouler
Belle de jour
The iconic 1967 drama film Belle de Jour revolutionized the fashion world with its wardrobe created by none less than Yves Saint Laurent. Much of the clothing presented during New York Fashion Week resembles actress Catherine Deneuve’s outfits — the epitome of chic bourgeoise — hence the inspiration for the style’s denomination based in the movie’s title. Double-breasted coats, knee-length skirts, and minimalist designs are some forms wherein this trend manifests. Always very sophisticated, and classic even when modern.
Photo: Eudon Choi
In the ’90s a growing number of sportswear brands began to attract a massive fashion cult. These tendencies were back on the runway at New York Fashion Week in jackets, fitted tops, track pants, sneakers, and staples like bicycle shorts and bodycon one-pieces. Aside from the more extravagant combinations, many of these pieces can be adapted into even the most classic looks.
New York Fashion Week returned full-force this season, paving the way for the Spring/Summer 2023 shows which will follow in Milan, London, and Paris, an impeccable start. As everything in Fashion is an embodiment and consequence of our constantly-moving and ever-evolving society, tendencies change at an ever quickening pace. But among all the tumult there are always the tendencies which are the most remarkable! You can expect the eight trends delineated above to take over the stores and streets as people discover those they identify with and integrate these into their style. If they haven’t subconsciously done so already!
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